The temples of khajuraho are india’s unique gift to the
world, representing, as they do, a paean to life, to love, to joy, perfect in
execution and sublime in expression. Life, in every form and mood, has been
captured in stone, testifying not only to the craftsman’s artistry but also to
the extraordinary breadth of vision of the Chandela Rajputs under whose rule
the temples were conceived and constructed.
The Khajuraho temples were built in the short span of a
hundred years, from 950-1050 AD in a truly inspired burst of creativity. Of the
85 original temples, 22 have survived till today to constitute one of the
world’s great artistic wonders.
The creators of Khajuraho claimed descent from the moon and
the legend behind the founding of this great dynasty and the temples is a
fascinating one. Hemwati, the lovely young daughter of Brahmin priest, was
seduced by the moon god while bathing in a forest pool. The child born of this
union was Chandravarman, founder the Chandela dynasty. Brought up in the
forests by his mother who sought refuge from a censorious society,
Chandravarman, when established as a ruler, had a dream visitation from his
mother. It is said that she implored him to build temples that would reveal
human passions, and in doing so, bring about a realization of the emptiness of
human desire. It is also possible that the Chandelas were followers of the Tantric
cult, which belives that gratification of the earthy desires is a step towards
attaining the infinite liberation or nirvana.
Why they chose Khajuraho, even then a small village, as the
site for their great complex is also open to speculation. One theory is that,
given the eclectic nature of their faith and the many beliefs represented in
temples, the learning, to bring together many sects.
With their decline, the temples lay forgotten for many
centuries, covered by the encroaching forests, victim to the ravages of the
elements. Re- discovered in the early 20th century, restored and
cleaned, the temples of Khajuraho once again testify to a past glory.
Architecturally too, they are unique, being different from
the temple prototype of their period. Each stands on a high masonry platform
with a marked upward direction in the structures, further enhanced by vertical
projection to create the effect of grace and lightness. Each if the chief
compartments is mounted by its own roof, grouped so that the highest is in the
center, the lowest over the portico a highly imaginative recreation of the
rising peaks of the Himalayas abode the
gods.
The three main compartments are the entrance (ardha-mandapa),
assembly hall (mandapa) and sanctum (garbha griha) with further additions in
the more developed temples.
WHAT TO SEE
Western Group:
Kandariya Mahadeo: The
largest and the most typical of the Khajuraho temples, it soars 31 m high,
Dedicated Shiva, the sanctum sanctorum enshrines a lingam. The main shrine is
exquisitely carved and features in delicate details, gods, goddesses, celestial
maidens and lovers. Perticularly noteworthy are the entrance arch, the ceilings
and pillars of the interior compartments.
Chaunsath Yogini: The only granite temple and the earliest
surviving shrine of the group (900 AD), it is dedicated to Kali. Only 35 of the
original 65 shrines remain. Another Kali temple (originally dedicated to Vishnu)
is the Devi Jagdambe Temple.
Chitragupta Temple: Facing
eastwards to the rising sun, the temple is dedicated to the sun god, Surya. The
image of the diety in the inner sanctum is particularly imposing: five feet high,
and driving a horse drawn chariot. The group scenes depict royal processions,
hunting scenes and group dances, reflecting the lavish lifestyle of the
Chandela courts.
Vishwanath Temple: A
three headed image of Brahma is enshrined in this temple. The approach is
equally impressive, with lions flanking the northern and elephants the southern
steps that lead up to it. A Nandi bull faces the shrine.
Lakshmana Temle: The
lintel over the entrance of this beautiful Vaishnavite temple shows the trinity
of Brahma. Vishnu and Shiva with Lakshmi, Vishnu’s consort. The finely carved
sanctum has a three headed idol of Vishnu’s incaenations, Narasimha and Varaha.
This boar incarnation also appears in a nine-feet high statue at the Varaha
temple.
Matangeswara Temple: Still
a living place of worship, the temple is dedicated to Shiva, has an eight feet
high lingam and is outside the precincts of the Western group.
Eastern Group:
Parsvanth Temple: The group’s largest Jain temple and exquisite
in details. The sculptures on the northern outer wall are particularly
noteworthy. The themes depict, in charming detail, everyday activity. Within a
throne faces the bull emblem of the first tirthankara, Adinath. The Parsvanath
image was installed in 1860.
Ghantai Temple: This
Jain temple has a frieze which depicts the 16 dreams of Mahavira’s mother, and
a jain goddess on a winged Garuda.
Adhinath Temple: Dedicated to the Jain saint , Adinath, the
temple is lavishly embellished with sculpted figures, including yakshis.
The Three Hindu temples of the group are the Bramha,
containing a four-faced lingam, the Vamana, which is adomed on its outer walls
with carving of apsaras in the variety of sensuous attitudes and the Javari,
with a richly carved gateway and exterior sculptures.
Southern Group
Duladeo Temple: Dedicated
to Shiva the apsara and ornamented figures are the temple’s most striking
features.
Chaturbhuj Temple: This
temple ha a massive, intricately-carved image of Vishnu in the sanctum.
Sanctum & Light
Show: This fascinating Son-et-Lumiere spectacle evokes the life and times
of the great Chandela Kings and traces the story of the unique temples from the
10th Century to the present day. Mounted in the complex of the
Western Group of temples, the 50-minute show runs in Hindi and in English every
evening. Amitabh Bachchan, the Indian super star, narrates the story of Khajuraho
in his mesmerizing voice.
State Museum of
Tribal and Folk Arts : A fine collection of masterpieces of tribal and folk
arts and artifacts from all over Madhya Pradesh is on display at the Chandela
Cultural Complex. The State Museum has more than 500 representative items of
terracottas, metal craft, woodcraft, tribal and folk paintings, tattoos,
jewellery and masks. Timing: The museum is open on all days except
Mondays and Government Holiday from 12 noon to 8:00pm.
New Temples Excavated:
In recent excavations at Bija Mandal, located 3 Km south-east of the western
group of temples, remains of several temples even older than the originally
known 85 have been found.
EXCEURSIONS
Panna National Park: Panna
National Park, 32km away and a mere 30-minute drive from Khajuraho, spreads
along the river Ken. The jungles today harbor many species of wildlife. The
tiger can be glimpsed here, with other rare species such as the leopard, wolf
and gharial. Herds of bluebull, chinkara and sambar are a common sight. On the
road to Panna are the spectacular Pandav Falls, Alternate picnic sites are
Benisagar Dam, Raneh Falls and Ranguan Lake, while interesting trips can be
made to Rajgarh Palace, now being converted in to a Heritage Hotel, and Dhubela
Museum. Further away is Bandhavgarh National park and tranquil Chitrakoot.
HOW TO REACH
BY Air: Regular
services link Khajuraho with Delhi and Varanasi.
By Rail: Khajuraho
has its own railway station linking it to Delhi, Jhansi (172 Km), Harpalpur(94Km)&
Mahoba (64 Km), Satna (117 Km) which is on the Mumbai-Allahabad line of the
Central Railway is a convenient rail link for those coming from Mumbai, Kolkata
and Varansi.
By Road: Khajuraho
is connected by regular buses with Satna, Harpalpur, Jhansiand Mahoba.
Best Season: July
to March
No comments:
Post a Comment